[+ picsbyfb :: an everyday trip

NEST | The Learning Thermostat

2012-02-02T09:14:00.001-08:00

I recently installed my NEST – Learning Thermostat, and I am very impressed with the style and capability of this new technological piece of equipment. I have waited patiently for about 2 months for mine to arrive. Being able to install it myself was a plus…and seeing it’s technology in action is pretty cool. The settings allow for everything to be learned in a pattern so that the house uses the energy of the heating and cooling system on an almost automatic mode. The Wi-Fi connectivity of the NEST means that it can interpret the weather in your area and adapt its settings accordingly as part of the learning process as well. Below are some pics of my setup.
Check out http://www.nest.com/ for more info.

Good morning…

2012-01-28T09:44:00.001-08:00

There were still a few waves left over from yesterday…

The Magic Button - Make Everything OK...

2012-01-25T07:23:00.000-08:00

Click the link below to make everything OK!

The Magic Button - Make Everything OK...

A year ago this past weekend…

2012-01-23T05:14:00.001-08:00

It was exactly a year ago this past weekend that myself and my my two oldest children did a “photo walk” through Bradley Beach and Ocean Grove. These are the two shots that really stood out to us. We decided that another “photo walk” needs to be scheduled soon. Hopefully we’ll get a sunny day this time to try some different techniques!

Alarm Clocks...

2012-01-22T06:34:00.001-08:00

I've been reading the work of a sleep doctor. This is a guy who suggests ways to improve your sleep, help you fall asleep, and in general get the most out of your hours at rest. He is a strong advocate of not using an alarm clock. According to his research the most important aspect of getting good sleep is allowing your body to wake naturally and not be beholden to a buzzing clock on your nightstand. More than a couple times, my alarm clock has failed. On these occasions I have seldom woken up at the hour I needed to be awake to get to work, get to the airport, or meet friends to go surfing. I believe everything this doctor says about alarm clocks, and yet I have to wonder if he's so out of touch that he doesn't understand that alarm clocks are the only reason half of the people on this planet get out of bed on time.~ ty mr.s&c

Surfing the Waves of Life – by Dr. Bill Rosenblatt

2012-01-20T06:36:00.000-08:00

Cycles and Lessons

It might seem odd to state the obvious, life goes on. Each day
the sun comes up, the tide changes, and the sun goes down. We
all know that we'll have periods of surf and flat spells, good offshore
winds and winds that aren't cooperative. We'll surf small waves as
well as big waves. Unless you live in a tropical place the water
temperature will go up and down. That's just the way it is and will
always be.

What can we learn from the cycles of our lives as surfers? Are you open
to looking? Everything changes. Some changes are good, and some bad,
for nothing stays the same. We often go through our surf lives with the
support of the same people. How long have you surfed with the same
crew? How many waves have you shared? How many swells have
you experienced together? How many life events have you all experienced
together?

As you begin 2012, another year, take a moment to appreciate the cycles.
Relish the friendships. Learn the lessons. A noted wise man once said that
there are 2 things we can use the past for; to learn lessons, and remember
the good things. Let that guide you as you surf the waves of another year.
Stay healthy, happy, and at peace.

-Dr. Bill Rosenblatt

Amen Brother!!!

2012-01-05T13:11:00.000-08:00

"There are people out there that I just can't stand. They’re in my hometown…they’re in the town I now live in…and they’re even within my chosen career field. The reason why I don't like these people is because they'll smile in your face and they talk sh*t behind your back. They don’t speak their minds and probably never will."

- Bobby Martinez (Pro-surfer & truth speaker)

Just read this…

2012-01-04T15:42:00.000-08:00

Love the talent you are. Let it support you. Willingly entrust everything to your passion. Make your way through life - as no ones master, and no ones slave.

- EMERGEMOVEMENT

Tilt Shift @ dinner tonight...

2012-01-04T14:19:00.000-08:00

Testing "tilt shift" photo techniques...

Patrick Di Fruscia - www.DiFrusciaPhotography.com

2012-01-04T10:28:00.000-08:00

Powerful words…I have enjoyed reading his commentary on Google+.

Patrick Di Fruscia - Yesterday 4:19 PM (edited) - Public

The World Needs You
Everyday we are constantly reminded why we shouldn't do what our heart desires. Reasons like, it will never work, there is no money to be made in that field, it will be very difficult, You are too old, you are too young etc. Most of the time, we are being told what we should and shouldn’t do by people who have never followed their dreams and passion and are now simply wishing they had done more to make it happen. These are merely words with no foundation brought to you by people with no passion.

You need to believe in everything your heart desires. If you don’t, nobody will that’s for sure. You need to make sure that everyday you take a step, however small it may be, towards your goals. Always stay focus even when times are hard. When fear takes over, don’t worry about it, keep pushing harder and don’t let that discourage you..this is simply the transition stage between your so called "zone of comfort" and your NEW LIFE.

Fear of the unknown is one of our greatest enemy and it has the power to make us believe why it will never work. We will find a multitude of fictional excuses to justify our inactivity. Always Stay focus on the end result and visualize your new life with the finest details. If you have the strength to go through this transition you will have a million reasons to celebrate a life with purpose that will finally make you feel ALIVE!! Don't be the one talking about how great things will be when you retire, Why retire when you do something you love. Life is made to be lived Now not in 10-20-30 years from now. Don't just think about it, Do it!!
Stay Strong & Live with Passion

"When you want to succeed as bad as you want to breathe, then you'll be successful"

2012-01-02T13:39:00.000-08:00

The Pirate Writer...

2011-12-14T21:35:00.000-08:00

During college a writer came to talk at our creative writing class that was being held in a massive lecture hall with about 200 undergrads attending. He'd written a book that had been turned into a major movie. Or, it was left unclear by the person who introduced him, maybe he'd been asked to write a book version of the movie after the movie had come out. That it was left unclear hints to the latter. In any case, he talked about the book and the creative process. At the end of his talk, he said that the next project he was working on was a book about pirates. The room erupted in laughter. Everyone threw their head back and had a good laugh. Then we all stopped laughing and he was still standing there. His pirate project was not a joke. When this type of thing happens, someone opens themselves up and tells you something personal, and you accidentally laugh, you can get out of it on a personal level. You can find something to cut the tension, transition, and it's over. When 200 people collectively laugh at you, it's just awkward from that point forward.

Fresh eyes...

2011-12-07T21:38:00.000-08:00

I've grown used to where things are in my house. That means things like tables, chairs, and magazines, but also things like garbage bags full of blankets, old skateboards and the Tupperware containers that my plant sits on so it doesn't warp the floorboards. I don't see these ugly things anymore. They're beige against a white background. It accounts for the price tag that's still on the painting, as well as the paint splatters all over the floor where I've grown too used to the spots to ever bother cleaning them. Same goes for the white spots on the wall that didn't get hit with the first coat of paint. But every once in a while, I'll take a look around as if I'm walking into the place for the first time, and I'll notice all these things, plus the coffee table that's just a box with a piece of glass on top of it. Faced with cleaning and accounting for all of these transgressions, it's better for you just to take a nap. Or lay on the couch and watch TV for 15 minutes. By the time you rise, they'll all have blended back in. And all your work will be done.

Moderation is King...

2011-12-04T21:36:00.000-08:00

I just read an article saying that egg yolks are not all that bad for you. The article used a lot of words I didn't understand, so it's probably true. Every few years we find that something we thought would kill us could actually save us. One year we're supposed to avoid alcohol. The next year we're supposed to drink one glass of red wine. Then two, then it doesn't matter what we drink as long as it's a couple drinks a day. Then bacon and butter will kill you. Then it turns out margarine is just as bad as butter, so if you're going to eat one, stick with butter. The theme through all of these medical dietary recommendations is that moderation is king. It seems like you could get away with eating sticks of butter like bananas as long as you only did it once a year.

Donald Trump’s Retirement Plan

2011-11-03T11:02:00.000-07:00

By Jeremy Olshan

The one person Donald Trump says he’ll never fire is himself. Though he turned 65 this year, the real estate and reality TV showman insists the thought of retirement never occurs to him.

“My father, who worked until he passed away at 93, used to always say, ‘to retire is to expire,” Trump told SmartMoney.com. “And I feel the same way. I love what I’m doing –and when you love what you’re doing, you don’t retire.”

Sure he’s abandoned various enterprises over the years, but Trump –a man of a thousand careers –said he could never stop working.

He’s not alone: Three quarters of Americans plan to work well beyond retirement age, a 2010 Families and Work Institute study found. While for many this is a function of economic necessity, a third of those surveyed said they feared without work they’d become bored and less vital.

Trump says he can understand why many of his friends would prefer to ride off into the sunset on a golf cart, but claims he’d rather put up a new golf course than putt on one. “Part of the beauty of what I do is that just checking out my properties means going to glamorous places,” he says. “That is working, for me.”

Not that there’s anything wrong with not working, Trump said. “I wouldn’t say retirement is for losers –in fact I have a lot of friends who are great winners in retirement –but I also have a lot of great friends who, after they retire, just never look the same.”

Without naming names, Trump said he’s seen several prominent businessmen turn to mush once they stopped working. “A friend, who was a banker, looked forward to his retirement, but as soon as he got there he became less vibrant —he aged a lot,” Trump said. “I think people would live longer if they kept working.”

Keeping active is keeping youthful, Trump said. “In real estate, people never retire –they keep making deals until their 80s and 90s,” he said. “Real estate people don’t have to get facelifts to keep looking young, we give facelifts to buildings.”

From developer of luxury apartments to casinos to beauty pageants to political platforms, few can claim a more varied portfolio of careers. “I don’t think anyone has been as diverse as me. I own Miss Universe, Miss USA. I own a lot of different companies,” he said. “But that’s not why I don’t want to retire. When you find what you love doing, you keep doing it. When you stop loving it, then you retire."

Camera Therapy: How Photography Gave Me Hope Again

2011-10-27T12:33:00.000-07:00

I found this article online…very inspiring…

Shaun’s Story

In June of 2009 I was involved in a serious traffic accident that left me in a coma for several weeks and unable to walk or use my left arm. The list of injuries I have are longer than I can include here and so the last 2 years of my life have largely been spent for me in hospital or rehabilitation centres.

Much of my past life is a distant memory – things I used to take for granted and do without thinking take hours of effort to achieve, friendships have changed as I’ve become reliant upon others to survive and for a long time I lived without much hope. Depression became a state I lived in 24/7.

Camera Therapy

Around 6 months ago, and as part of my rehabilitation, my therapist suggested that I try to introduce something creative into my life. I think he was just trying to get me to think of something outside of my situation. He suggested painting but also mentioned in passing another patient who had taken up photography.

Being a techy guy (in my past life) I liked the idea of getting a camera and after a lot of research purchased a small four thirds format camera (a Panasonic GF1). I wanted a DSLR but due to their size and my limited movement (I do everything with one hand) I went for a lighter and smaller camera.

I also spent a heap of time on your website since buying the camera. I’ve not taken photos before but dPS has taught me a lot!

Over the last 6 months my life has changed a lot. Physically I’m improving a little – although still live life in a wheelchair and am very restricted in my movement – but emotionally I’m a different guy and much of it is a result of photography.

My Photographic Challenges

Pictured: Photographer using the 'Mount Mover'

There are a lot of challenges to take a simple photo for me. For example:

Getting to a location to photograph can be tough – I like street photography and landscapes and much of my life is confined to my small apartment or rehab centres.
Keeping my camera still – I ended up getting a small Tripod attachment welded by a friend to my wheelchair which has helped me a lot. Now my camera is in front of me any time I’m in my chair. I’ve since found purpose made mounts for wheelchairs and have just ordered one (the Mount Mover) – this will also enable me to consider a DSLR.
Just taking a shot – when I’m out with other photographers I notice that they are able to take a lot of shots from different angles and compositions that I’m not able to get.

How Photography Gives Me Hope

However despite the challenges photography has made me feel alive again. It has become a very therapeutic thing.

It gives me something to think about that is not related to my pain or injuries.
It gives me motivation to get well again.
It takes me out of sitting alone in my apartment.
It has given me dreams for the future.
It has given me a social interaction with other photographers (online and in real life).

My photos are not as technically brilliant as many of your authors – but that’s not what photography is about for me. For me it is a part of getting well and celebrating life, something I never thought I’d do again.

A Tip for Able Bodied Photographers

One ‘tip’ that I’d like to give other photographers is to ‘SLOW DOWN’. One of the bonuses of living my life is that nothing happens fast. As a result I see a lot more than I think many other photographers do. I also am forced to consider every element of my shot – composition, light, settings etc.

I see a lot of photographers racing around to get their shots. Not considering what they’re seeing and just snapping off a heap of shots very quickly and racing on to their next location. I suspect a lot of photographers could learn a great deal by slowing down.

Kids These Days…

2011-10-15T02:35:00.000-07:00

I was speaking to a friend the other day who was traveling aboard a ship for about a week and he told me that he had talked to the captain several times. The captain had a distinct voice and would regularly make announcements over the ship's public address system to tell them they would be disembarking shortly or they would be passing some important landmark.

He said that the captain told him that a few weeks before his voyage some kids had been on the ship. They'd observed him operate the PA to make announcements several times. Then one night, while lying in bed, he heard his own voice over the PA telling everyone that they should get their life jackets on and meet in the hallway for a disembarkation.

The kids had taken a recording of his voice, and they went to the PA and played it about 11pm. People spilled into the hallway confused and looking for answers.

When I hear people talking about how technology is ruining the lives of kids today, I think of this story and feel hope!

Things I should try harder to do with my own kids...

2011-10-14T09:55:00.000-07:00

Inspirational. Period.

2011-10-10T14:08:00.000-07:00

There are those who say they'll do something someday...and then there are those who actually do.

You can't please everyone...

2011-10-03T15:27:00.000-07:00

Thank you Jason Small…

2011-08-27T11:43:00.000-07:00

"We all think we're different and that we'll somehow get different results when we do something millions of people have done before us. But that is only true for a select few who take risks and push themselves to explore life, instead of simply just living it."

In early August Jason “Small Dog” Small was killed in a tragic car crash in Alaska. I met Jason in 2002 when I was Mountainboarding a lot and traveling each summer to run and compete in various Mountainboard events up and down the East Coast, USA.
Jason stood out from the other riders on tour. He always had a smile on his face, and was more interested in having fun than winning any event for the mere “competitive” aspect of winning.
Don’t get me wrong, it’s not that he wasn’t competitive…because he certainly was!
Until Akoni Kama actually landed the “double back-flip”, Jason was the first person EVER to actually attempt it on a Mountainboard.
Living legend.
Thank you Jason Small for showing us that pushing it is the only way to find out how good you can be.

Americans pursue but can't catch happiness

2011-06-30T20:52:00.000-07:00

By Suzy Parker, USA TODAY

By Craig Wilson, USA TODAY

Updated: 06/28/2011 9:22pm

Much is made of happiness these days. We're all supposed to be happy. Happy. Happy. Happy.

We aren't always happy, of course. And when we're not, we wonder why. What's wrong with us? Why aren't we happy?

I have a friend who is perplexed by all this. He wonders why people believe happiness is part of the bargain, why they assume happiness should fill our daily lives. I have no answer for him. I always thought we were supposed to pursue happiness, not capture it.

Some people think happiness is a choice. A little girl in the new Australian movie The Tree tells her friend that she can be happy or she can be sad, so she has decided to be happy. What does she know? She spends most of her time up in a tree. Maybe that's the secret.

A book titled Real Happiness came out earlier this year and touts a 28-day program on meditation. I brought it home because it came with a CD that literally promises happiness. Real happiness. Says so right there on the cover.

Sharon Salzberg, who speaks oh-so-softly to me on the CD, keeps advising me to "let go" and reminds me that I am allowed to "begin again" over and over. This makes me happy since I keep getting distracted and continually need to start over.

I won't say I've progressed to the real happiness stage yet, but …

I also like it when she doesn't talk for long periods of time and then suddenly reappears, reiterating that it's perfectly fine to start over, begin again. To let go.

Which might be what the Danes do so successfully. Letting go.

Denmark once again has come out on top as the happiest country in the world. I was in Copenhagen last year, and I have to admit, they seemed like a happy bunch. Pretty, too. Maybe that's the key. Maybe it's easier to be happy if you're pretty. They might be on to something. Beer also appears to make Danes happy.

Countries were ranked by one of those "better life" indexes that measures 11 different quality-of-life categories — housing, income, education and health among them. Canada came in second, followed by Norway, Australia and the Netherlands. The United States didn't even make the top 10.

What are we doing wrong, do you think?

Not enough vacation time? Americans don't use all of theirs.

Not enough beer? I doubt that's the problem.

Not enough pretty, thin blondes? Could be.

Maybe we should just listen to the woman on the meditation CD again. The one who promises real happiness.

Let go. Slow down. Begin again.

And maybe have a danish.

Longest day of the year…

2011-06-23T04:24:00.000-07:00

The other day was the longest day of the year. I'm trying to be upbeat about it. When people are trying to determine whether they're a pessimist or an optimist, they shouldn't ask if the glass is half-full, but rather if we're beginning the long dark slide into winter or celebrating the beginning of summer on June 21st. Also, it makes no sense that summer officially starts on June 21, the longest day of the year. This should mark the mental middle of summer. On my calendar summer would begin June 1st, the middle would be June 21st, and the end would be August 31st. I realized that June 21 isn't in the middle of those dates, but with the Fourth of July coming up and the end of summer always flying past, it just feels like the middle of summer.

Average guy, average camera…

2011-03-28T13:31:00.000-07:00

I didn’t get a chance to observe the Supermoon event on March 19th. But I did try to capture some pre-supermoon pictures on March 18th. Learning how your camera works is half the battle when trying to capture a quality shot, but shooting the moon sometimes poses a different set of challenges (especially when you are using an off-the-shelf lens).

In any event, here’s a few shots that were captured.

Geometry

2011-03-02T11:09:00.000-08:00

Experience proves that anyone who has studied geometry is infinitely quicker to grasp difficult subjects than one who has not. – Plato

For the past year and a half I have been working intensely on developing my Computer Aided Drafting and Design skills through various AutoCAD and BIM software programs. It has only recently dawned on me that the creativity I have been developing has come directly from my increased knowledge of basic geometry. I heard the quote above about two days ago and felt compelled to show off some of my recent work.

Leroy Grannis RIP

2011-02-24T08:46:00.000-08:00

The surf world lost one its oldest and most influential characters this month when Leroy Grannis passed away in Carlsbad at the age of 92. He took this shot of Midget Farelly getting mystic in the Makaha shorebreak in 1968. It is one of numerous Grannis surfing images that has truly become iconic in surf culture.

Grannis was a surfer since childhood, hailing from the spawning grounds of Hermosa Beach. Much later in life, at the age of 42, he took up photography and began two decades of documenting the surf scene in California and Hawaii. These were the decades of the Beach Boys, the early big wave pioneers and a culture that was exploding across the world.
Grannis’ images, many shot using pioneering water equipment made of wood and rubber, were instantly iconic and over the years have become respected for their beauty and historical significance.

He was a pivotal figure in the rise of surf photography in the 1960s, with the New York Times once calling Grannis the “godfather of surf photography.” Later in his life, Grannis would go on to co-found International Surfing Magazine, which would later become Surfing Magazine, but he stepped away from the industry in the early 1970s.

The images that he produced during the early years of surfing have proven to be some of the era’s most enduring. Inducted into both the Surfing Walk of Fame and the International Surfing Hall of Fame, Grannis’ contribution to the sport will live on forever.

For 31 years, Grannis balanced a career with General Telephone Co. - surfing, photography and his family. He met his wife of 69 years, Katie, on the beach near 12th Street in Hermosa.

A visit to a local doctor changed Grannis' life - and the history of surfing. Grannis had been suffering from stress at work and developed an ulcer. His doctor recommended taking up a hobby and he picked up a camera. After some guidance by a friend, Grannis took to the craft. It was 1959.

Leroy Grannis
August 12, 1917 – February 3, 2011

Speech Studies

2011-02-01T09:31:00.000-08:00

There was a kid in my high school speech class who would have his friends write all of his speeches minutes before he made them. He'd take a few sheets of loose leaf up to the front of the room and read these wild stories. One I remember was, "The Person I Admire Most." It was completely fictional story of his grandfather's WWII service, including an extensive account of his flashbacks and habit of calling everyone he didn't know 'Jerry.' This kid would read to raucous laughter, but he'd do it entirely with a straight face, totally deadpan. It was remarkable. Of course he passed with a D so that the teacher could get him out of her hair. Almost everyone else in the class received an A for their boring, uninspired speeches, but I know that kid learned speaking skills that are much more in line with what you need in a real-world work setting.

Be careful out there.

2011-01-23T21:15:00.000-08:00

In the loosely quoted words of a former politician I didn't like:

"It's not what you know or what you know you don't know, it's what you don't know that you don't know that can really hurt you."

Posted with WordPress for BlackBerry.

A pretty good Joe Montana quote on winning.

2011-01-23T13:52:00.000-08:00

"Winners, I am convinced, imagine their dreams first. They want it with all their heart and expect it to come true. There is, I believe, no other way to live." -Joe Montana

Posted with WordPress for BlackBerry.

Be yourself because...

2011-01-22T21:29:00.000-08:00

"No Matter what you do, there will be critics."

Posted with WordPress for BlackBerry.

Craig Kelly

2011-01-21T09:41:00.000-08:00

I was reminded yesterday that it has been 8 years since the passing of Craig Kelly. For those of you unaware of who he is…all I can say is that snowboarding would not be the sport it is today without him. “Smooth Groove” is the snowboard movie that changed the way I ride.

Monday, January 20th 2003 - REVELSTOKE, B.C.

Snowboard legend Craig Kelly was killed in an avalanche along with six other skiers, in the Revelstoke area of British Columbia. Kelly's contributions to our sport are innumerable. 36 year-old Kelly was a four-time World Champion and three-time U.S. Open champion, but will be remembered by most as one of the sport's most stylish riders and the first true professional snowboarder. He was also a pioneer of backcountry riding whose knowledge, experience, and approach in that element made him an inspiration to riders all over the world.

A group of 24 skiers were in the path of the slide, which occurred on the Durrand Glacier. The bodies of the seven victims were recovered, but weather systems in the area have slowed evacuation efforts. The remaining 16 skiers spent the night on the mountain and await evacuation. Craig Kelly is survived by his young daughter Olivia, and his partner Savina.

Longest rides in a while...

2011-01-19T14:37:00.000-08:00

First surf of 2011 this afternoon. The timing wasn't ideal, it was probably reeling earlier in the day...but I got some of the longest rights I've had in months today. Really fun & fast. I didn't feel all that "surf-ready" though. I'm trying to shake off the mobility issues I've had since last spring. Need to get more flex & speed back into my style. But that was a pretty good start to the year!

Went for a walk this afternoon and took my camera along…

2011-01-17T13:38:00.000-08:00

So I had this dream the other night on the 25th…

2010-12-27T07:13:00.000-08:00

It looked exactly like this.

What are you thankful for?

2010-11-24T21:42:00.000-08:00

It's 5:22am Novemeber 25th, 2010...Thanksgiving morning. I am sitting here writing this post via my BlackBerry Blog Posting App in the dark...just because it strikes me to do so. I am thinking about things (just like I always do around this time of year) and realizing this year that I am more thankful than I've been in a while, due to recent current events. I know I've probably "harped on" about my trials and tribulations in other posts, and about issues that (to others) are hardly issues worth mentioning...but this year is different.

I am truly thankful for everything that is going on right now in my life (even the stressful parts that make me angry). I am realizing more everyday that my time is finite. My existence is nominal...and that tomorrow just might be too late.

So this entire weekend will be spent with family & friends in a thankful manner...because you never fully realize what you have till it's gone.

Enjoy the day, and "thank you" for reading.

What Would You Do With A Second Chance?

2010-10-15T03:00:00.000-07:00

What would you do with a second chance? A question posed many times and in many ways…usually finding multiple answers to scenarios that have been played out a million times in my head anyway. Regardless of the end result, it is still a tough (but fair) question.

Those who don’t learn from history are bound to repeat it. I first heard those words when I was a freshman in high school. There were spoken by Brother Michael Dwyer. They have stuck with me ever since, and directly relate to the second chance question.

So what would you do with a second chance?

Would it make a difference?

We all know that only a select few ever truly get a shot at a “genuine” second chance capability.

So I guess the better question is…

Knowing what you know now, what will you do differently?

The twins suited up and ready for their first day of surfing!

how much is enough?

2010-07-26T05:07:00.000-07:00

PHOTO: The Surfer's Path

"...as for my own surfing, let's just say that when the waves start pushing 10 feet, I get this tremendous urge to make a sandwich."

- Ronan McLaughlin

baseball in the summertime...

2010-07-05T13:04:00.000-07:00

I’d be lying if I said that I’ve grown up a Yankee fan or even a baseball fan throughout my life. In all honesty though, I do remember listening to Phil Rizzuto do radio broadcasts of the games during those nights when the sun never seemed to set. As a 11 year old, staying out in the backyard till 9:30pm with my younger brother seemed like the coolest thing ever. We’d listen to the AM/FM transistor radio we shared with the huge telescoping 3 foot antenna for hours (the theoretical equivalent of today’s iPod in a sense).

For the last 4 years that same little brother has shared the Yankee experience with me and my kids by taking us to a game once a year. It’s become a tradition that is not only looked forward to, but is envied by those who we share the details with because it gets better and better each year.

Sometimes I think no matter how much you thank someone for sharing an experience with you…it’s just not possible to elaborate on the impact that those experiences have over time.

So although life continues to throw us metaphorical curveballs, there are still those moments when you are able to simply tee-it-up and hit it for all it’s worth.

Thanks Bobby-B for making me a Yankee fan too!

My favorite player Mariano Rivera coming in to close it out for the win!

it's all coming back....

2010-06-24T13:56:00.000-07:00

PHOTO: The Surfer's Path

"In surfing, live like a grom: just enjoy every surf.”

JC Pierce (surfer, founder of Island Researcher Insitute, father of two groms)

Sundays...

2010-05-12T01:18:00.000-07:00

"If you talk to God when you are out surfing on Sunday morning, that may be better than going to church, a priest once told me.”

Steve Sipman (unrepentant felon surfer)

There is kind of an unspoken rule in my house that basically pushes the notion that Sundays are for doing NOTHING. It is the one day a week that should be formally observed as a "day of rest" and should not be filled with friends coming over, sporting events, work of any kind, or gatherings. It should be used to relax, refresh, and prepare for the coming week's trials and tribulations. Without this day of easy-living, we end up thrust back into a routine of stress and coping that can completely wear one down and affect the well being of your overall health.

If a surf session does occur on a Sunday it is either done early in the AM, or very late in the afternoon.

Surfing on the weekends during the summer months does not occur at all, due to the crowds and lack of respect in the water for the gift of Sundays in general.

Ahhhhh, Sundays!

it's been a year...more or less

2010-04-18T14:14:00.000-07:00

Amazingly enough it’s been a little over a year since the inception of this so-called BLOG. Even with everything that has transgressed over that period of time, it is still kind of neat to be able say I’ve kept at it for a year.

Here’s to rolling forward into year #2.

March 23rd...

2010-03-24T01:49:00.000-07:00

I inadvertently forgot to post yesterday in recognition of my book March 23rd…

I was reminded by a student in the hallway, but still maintained the business of the day and even before falling asleep last night (knowing that there was still sometime from the day I had forgotten) it didn’t dawn on me until this morning that the posting had become ancient history.

Considering that the process began on March 8^th 2005 and stretched until April 9^th 2007 when it actually went to print…and it being March 24^th 2010, that must mean something!?!

In any event, on my list of things to do in this life I can safely cross it off and feel a sense of accomplishment that seeing it to the end was the right thing to do.

Just FYI, it is currently ranked at number 2,462,493 on the Amazon.com bestsellers list!

So let's seee...

Run a marathon - check!

Jump out of a plane - check!

Write a book - check!

Next?

Life sucks...sometimes...

2010-03-22T09:12:00.000-07:00

The Law of the Garbage Truck

Life is ten percent what you make it and ninety percent how you take it.

PULLED OFFLINE FROM The Surfersvillage Global Surf News: 21 March, 2010

“Often some interesting gems come our way in the Surfersvillage editorial department. The following is one of those rough-cut unearthed gems we thought might sparkle up your day....... and help with your driving habits!”

One day I hopped in a taxi and we took off for the airport. We were driving in the right lane when suddenly a black car jumped out of a parking space right in front of us. My taxi driver slammed on his brakes, skidded, and missed the other car by just inches. The driver of the other car whipped his head around, started yelling at us, and flipped us the bird.

My taxi driver just smiled and waved at the guy. And I mean, he was really friendly. So I asked, “Why did you just do that? This guy almost ruined your car and sent us to the hospital.” This is when my taxi driver taught me what I now call, ‘The Law of the Garbage Truck.’

He explained that many people are like garbage trucks. They run around full of garbage, full of frustration, full of anger, and full of disappointment. As their garbage piles up, they need a place to dump it and sometimes they’ll dump it on you. Don’t take it personally. Just smile, wave, wish them well, and move on. Don’t take their garbage and spread it to other people at work, at home, or on the streets.

The bottom line is that successful people do not let garbage trucks take over their day.

Life’s too short to wake up in the morning with regrets, so...love the people who treat you right.

Pray for the ones who don’t.

Life is ten percent what you make it and ninety percent how you take it.

new day...

2010-02-22T01:13:00.000-08:00

"Just before an epic wave, there is a trough. So if you are down, get in position for the good coming to you."

- Gary Young (surfer, innovator, bamboo researcher)

who are you?

2010-02-19T12:33:00.000-08:00

"You were born a surfer, you have a deep respect, a love for nature, and long for the simple things in life. Cherish what separates you from the mundane, and lifeless vanities of the world, share that passion and love with someone who is lost; this is the purpose of a surfer, not a trophy."

- Billy Yeager (surfer, musician, indie filmmaker), from "The Purpose of Surfing"

Yes...

everyday people...are not ordinary...

2010-01-29T03:53:00.000-08:00

Photo: Derek Hynd @ J-Bay...probably a finless board...acquired from The Surfer's Path

"This wave-riding strips one down to the basic essentials required in life."

- Magilla Schaus (freshwater surfer, firefighter, advocate, and we mourn his passing on 11/10/2009)

Couldn’t have said it better…

when i grow up...

2010-01-22T00:40:00.000-08:00

I think I have finally found what I want to do when I grow up...

Super large bottom turns like Keith Malloy...

Crazy For The Storm...A Memoir Of Survival

2010-01-16T15:53:00.000-08:00

“February 19, 1979, I was in a plane crash with my father; his girlfriend, Sandra; and the pilot of our chartered Cessna. Sandra was 30. My dad was 43. I was 11. By the end of our 9-hour ordeal, I was the only survivor.” - Norman Ollestad

In February 1979, just as he was reaping the rewards of his training, a chartered Cessna carrying Norman, his father, his father's girlfriend, and the pilot, crashed into the San Gabriel Mountains in Southern California and was suspended at eight thousand feet, engulfed in a blizzard. Norman's father, his coach and hero, was dead, and the 11-year old Ollestad had to descend the mountain alone and grief-stricken, through snow and ice, without any gear. This is his remarkable story, in his own words.

Set in Malibu and Mexico in the late 1970s, the book captures the earthy surf culture of Southern California; the boy's conflicted feelings for his magnetic father; and the exhilarating tests of skill in the surf and snow that prepared young Norman to become a fearless surfer and ski champion - which ultimately saved his life.

I just finished reading this book and it is awesome. Simply a fantastic story for those who have an adventurous spirit.

http://www.crazyforthestorm.com

Which came first, the chicken or the egg?

2010-01-16T13:54:00.000-08:00

"Think of your relationship with the sea as you would that with a spouse or lover. Learn her moods and nuances, become intimate, and never let some dipshit tell you how to be with her."

- David Pu'u (surfer, photographer, waterdweeb)

In passing at my beach the other day I was stopped and asked about my boards, and if I happened to be considering adding anything new to my quiver for 2010…ironic.

Since January 1st I have been working with a fellow board a fanatic, and the owner of Natural Art surf shop in NC to build a board that is a special blend of volume and performance to take advantage of mediocre surf in a new way.

I’d love to elaborate on the creativity that went into this process, explain the dimensions and the even the color-scheme that will make this board come to life…but even I have no idea what the final details will include at this point. The beauty of this type of inspired process is that in the end it really isn’t about the material object that comes out of it…it’s the notion of the journey that was conceived in getting the fine points vocalized and interpreted so that this board “could” be created.

Don’t get me wrong, I’ll still be that 16-year-old grom (on the inside) the day this board enters my hands! But for now it is so damn satisfying to have worked on a new project that will continue moving through R&D from now until who knows when.

Controlling Monday?

2009-09-21T14:58:00.000-07:00

"Surfing: Making Monday mornings bearable for more than 2000 years."

- Jaimal Yogis (writer, surfer)

Anyone who surfed this past Friday evening (September 18^th, 2009) knows what I’m talking about…it was one of those days that makes you forget that you live in New Jersey…classic fall.

Warm weather, clean warm water, waist to chest high peelers, peaky and running, and not completely closing out…challenging and fun.

Came home from the session and lit up a nice outdoor fire right before dark. Kept it going for a few hours so the kids could enjoy it too.

Perfect ending to a relatively crappy week…this week is kind of crappy already and it’s only Monday…work isn’t always fun.

As a matter of fact it is a lot of work right now and it really shouldn’t be. I have decided to not kill myself with the burden being placed on me right now…I’m gonna take it as it comes and “play the game”.

Keep it under control…keep it under control…

Ever eaten a CLIF BAR?

2009-08-13T05:30:00.000-07:00

If not, you should. Overall the story of Clif Bars is great. But even greater is the concept of Clif Bars business philosophies that truly make them stand out.

Gary Erickson is the founder and CEO of Clif Bar. He co-founded Kali’s Bakery in Emeryville, California which sold calzones and gourmet cookies. He developed Clif Bar as an alternative to other energy bars on the market which did not match his taste. In 1992, Kali’s introduced the first Clif Bars in the bakery; in 1997, Kali's Bakery changed its name to Clif Bar Inc., naming it after Gary's father, Clifford.

Next time you have the opportunity to purchase an energy/ nutrition bar give a Clif Bar a go. Then read the back of the wrapper…it goes something like this…

“While trekking Nepal, I met up with an expedition about to climb Dhaligiri, one of the world’s highest peaks. I figured that with more than 200 porters the expedition must have been traveling with at least 20,000 pounds of stuff. Expeditionary climbing takes an enormous amount of energy, equipment, and people, to put just a handful of individuals on top of a mountain. My friends and I prefer to climb alpine style; we move quickly, and carry light packs, and leave no waste behind. Each campsite is a beautiful destination in itself; not simply a means to an end. I don’t believe in reaching the top at any cost - in climbing or in business. Clif Bar’s journey resembles alpine climbing. We try to travel light and are committed to keeping our company, products, people, community and the earth healthy.

- Gary, Founder and Owner of Clif Bar & Company”

before and after...

2009-07-07T03:42:00.000-07:00

Taking a really good photograph is difficult…it’s relative to the equipment you’re using, the timing, the light, the subject, and the final perception that others may critique your work negatively.

It’s even harder to take a good photo when you know what you want to capture but yet cannot get it done because of the technical issues that are beyond the equipment you are currently using.

This year I have spent A LOT of time learning post-processing. Without a doubt I have found Abode Photoshop’s Lightroom 2 to be the best photo software I have ever worked with.

Below are before and after of a photo post processed with Lightroom 2. I knew what I wanted to do with the shot and just couldn’t get the light needed outdoors to complete the photo on-the-spot. But knowing that I captured the element I would need to uncover the quality of the photo, Lightroom 2 was able to recreate the parts that were missing.

What if...

2009-07-05T04:46:00.000-07:00

Below is an excerpt from an e-mail I received yesterday…I can’t even imagine what it would be like to lose a child.

It’s things like this that help to put back into perspective what’s really important.

--start quote--

From: Curtis and Tresa
Sent: Saturday, July 04, 2009 7:56 AM
To: Frank
Subject: Re: June Camping...

Hey guys, sorry we haven't contacted you sooner, it's been a hell of a week. After you guys left, Oliver choked on a sucker the next day and came as close to death as we would ever want to see. He turned navy blue except for his white lips, and he nearly went down (lights out) when the person at the store was able to dislodge the sucker with the Heimlich. Curtis had tried several times to dislodge it and the ambulance was walking in the door when it popped out. We've all been super traumatized with two near death experiences within three days of each other. I don't know how parents of kids with terminal illnesses survive it.

--end quote--

Frankie, Olivia, Neeve (hiding in the back), Frank & Ciara getting ready for the fireworks under

the lifeguard stand @ the beach.

Monday Morning Wave - June 29th 2009

2009-06-29T05:26:00.000-07:00

"I have never regretted the time I spent riding. But I have regretted time I spent not riding. If you don't take the time to go ride with your family, what else will you do with that time that is more important?"

- Gillian Que Galloway (slightly modified quote)

This weekend we completed the 2nd Annual Cedar Ledge Rocks - Kelley’s Apple Orchard camping/Mountainboarding trip. Never a dull moment! On the way up to the orchard, I received a phone call that Curtis Kelley had been stung by “some” bees. I was told not to worry that he’d be fine and to continue traveling. Later upon arriving we discovered that Curt had been attacked by a whole nest of hornets…had been stung over 14 times and went into anaphylactic shock. He lost his eye sight, his lips turned blue, and he could not breathe. Essentially could have died.

By the time Curt got home from the hospital things were somewhat back to normal, and the rest of the weekend was GREAT!

Riding with the kids was better this year because we were all hitting the dirt-course and taking the knowledge we got from Curtis this winter when we were snowboarding with him to the mountains again.

Can’t wait till next year!

Sensing a pattern...Monday Morning Wave - June 15th 2009

2009-06-15T05:17:00.000-07:00

"Sliding a wave removes our brains out of the ordinary and slips us into the extra ordinary of being there now. No more worries about mortgages or strife of being poor or rich. When you enter the domain of an ocean cylinder, that moment, those split seconds belong to the Zen part of just being. Period. "

- Bill Hamilton (surfer, shaper)

So I go for a surf early AM this past Saturday (6:10am to be exact)...and I'm met with solid waist to chest high peeling rights at a spot that I first started surfing last summer to avoid the crowds. Once again I find myself totally self-absorbed in the paddling and riding of each wave...nothing else exists for well over an hour. Even when another guy paddled out, it was still like I was surfing by myself.

I am starting to sense a pattern...one which really hasn't existed for me in quite some time.

It's now the understanding that it is not "how much" you are riding/surfing that counts, but how in-tune you are with it when you're out there.

When I was 23 there was a period of 6 weeks where every Friday morning there were solidly groomed waves to be surfed in Sandy Hook...six Friday's in a row...I'm hopefully sensing a pattern...

Monday Morning Wave - June 8th 2009

2009-06-08T01:18:00.000-07:00

"Surfing equates to living in the very moment of 'now'. When you ride a wave you leave behind all things important and unimportant, the purity of the moment is upon you. "

- Bill Hamilton (surfer, shaper)

Yesterday morning I was paddling out for my first surf since mid-April, and realized for a moment that even though I wasn’t getting the best waves of my life…I was riding each one and finding it really hard to remember what had just happened after each ride. Totally immersed in what the early morning surf session should be. Nothing else from 5:30am till 6:45am mattered. Total refreshment of mind and soul. Albeit that summer slop-surf is now in full effect, but none-the-less it was exactly what I needed to get ready for today.

Only 12 more days of work until summer vacation begins!

Double trouble...literally...

2009-06-04T13:04:00.000-07:00

Just out of curiosity…when does the “child-raising” get easier?

Yankees...baseball...

2009-05-05T01:58:00.000-07:00

When we were down in Florida a few weeks ago we took in a Yankees vs. Rays game at Tropicana Field in Tampa. It was well worth the drive and time spent at the stadium (mostly because we got to see a come from behind win for the Yanks).

My son has really taken to baseball and the Yankees in particular. I have found myself more interested in baseball as well.

Seeing your favorite team on the road is one thing, but being there to see them win is great!

MONDAY MORNING WAVE - for Monday May 4th

2009-05-04T01:41:00.000-07:00

Quote - “You can't soul-arch your wave through life. Every so often you have to bow down and go for the tube.” - Gary Sahagen (surfer, engineer, curator of the Huntington Beach Surf Museum)

Once again The Surfer's Path - Monday Morning Wave e-mailing has opened up a perception that has been weighing on my psyche for the past couple of months.

Complacency has been my motif for most of this past winter, I do get bursts of ambition but overall I’m mostly not interested in doing much. My friend Justin who is an active U.S. Marine has mentioned to me on more than several occasions that complacency in the military can get you killed. Maybe perhaps the same thing can occur to your everyday mental state as well.

I think I’m in need of a “search” right now…an opportunity to take on a challenge versus just letting things continue to transpire around me.

The what, where, who, when, and overall why…not sure about those details yet.

But I think now’s a good time to “bow down and go for the tube.”

Photo of Frank Bellezza...does he make it?

Stay tuned.

QUOTE: www.Surferspath.com

Can I Borrow $25?

2009-04-24T09:01:00.000-07:00

A man came home from work late, tired and irritated, as he did most days to find his 5-year old son waiting for him at the door.

SON: 'Daddy, may I ask you a question?'

DAD: 'Yeah sure, what it is?' replied the man.

SON: 'Daddy, how much do you make an hour?'

DAD: 'That's none of your business. Why do you ask such a thing?' the man said angrily.

SON: 'I just want to know. Please tell me, how much do you make an hour?'

DAD: ' If you must know, I make $50 an hour.'

SON: 'Oh,' the little boy replied, with his head down.

SON: 'Daddy, may I please borrow $25?'

The father was furious, 'If the only reason you asked that is so you can borrow some money to buy a silly toy or some other nonsense, then you march yourself straight to your room and go to bed. Think about why you are being so selfish. I don't work hard every day for such childish frivolities.' The little boy quietly went to his room and shut the door.

The man sat down and started to get even angrier about the little boy's questions. How dare he ask such questions only to get some money? After about an hour or so, the man had calmed down , and started to think: Maybe there was something he really needed to buy with that $25.00 and he really didn't ask for money very often. The man went to the door of the little boy's room and opened the door.

DAD: 'Are you asleep, son?' He asked.

SON: 'No daddy, I'm awake,' replied the boy.

DAD: 'I've been thinking, maybe I was too hard on you earlier' said the man. 'It's been a long day and I took out my aggravation on you.

Here's the $25 you asked for.’ The little boy sat straight up, smiling. 'Oh, thank you daddy!' he yelled. Then, reaching under his pillow he pulled out some crumpled up bills. The man saw that the boy already had money, started to get angry again. The little boy slowly counted out his money, and then looked up at his father.

DAD: 'Why do you want more money if you already have some?' the father grumbled.

SON: 'Because I didn't have enough, but now I do,' the little boy replied. Daddy, I have $50 now. Can I buy an hour of your time? Please come home early tomorrow. I would like to have dinner with you.'

The father was crushed. He put his arms around his little son, and he begged for his forgiveness. This is just a short reminder to all of you working so hard in life. We should not let time slip through our fingers without having spent time with those who really matter to us, those people who are closest to our hearts.

Always remember to share that $50 worth of your time with someone you love.

AUTHOR UNKNOWN

What makes a great trip?

2009-04-20T01:40:00.000-07:00

Every once in a while you make plans to travel to a destination…perhaps during an off-peak time of year, or maybe during the height of vacation season. Spring break is usually a high-volume expedition no matter where you go, or who you go with.

Last week I went down to Orlando, FL…you guessed it, during Spring Break and right into the heart of Disney World.

As I anticipated a labored week of travel with my wife, parents, and four kids in tow…I was amazed to actually partake in probably one of the best trips of my life. Don’t get me wrong, my nerves were a bit fried by the end of the week, but overall the airport, theme parks, and capability to catch some R&R at the pool were great.

So what makes a great trip?

Perhaps keeping the expectations at a minimum and allowing yourself to indulge in the pleasantries that exist when (and where) you least expect them.

Oh yeah, and always make time to surf a few waves at Typhoon Lagoon too!

The Uniting Force of Surf Travel - Posted by Shaun on Wednesday, July 30th, 2008

2009-04-10T04:54:00.000-07:00

I wish I knew the full name of the author of this article from www.5ones.com

Every time I look it over I am able to visualize the commentary in regard to many of the trips I’ve taken already (and hope to continue to be able to take).

PHOTOS: www.dsurf.com

The Uniting Force of Surf Travel - Posted by Shaun on Wednesday, July 30th, 2008

What is it about being on surf trips that seems to draw random travelers together? Why does it seem so much easier to connect with strangers when you have set out on your own journey to find the perfect wave? Whatever the reason may be, it has become quite clear to me that social status, country of origin, background, and every other barrier that may otherwise stand between us seems to be easily tossed aside when encountering our surfing counterparts throughout our search for surfing nirvana.

More so during surf trips than any other type of adventure that I have experienced, I have witnessed the rapid bonding of even the most contrasting individuals in brief periods of time. There’s something special that brings traveling surfers quickly together as friends while making all else in their lives irrelevant. Even the barrier of speaking a different language goes out the window when surfers are united by the common denominator of being in a foreign land on the hunt for the wave you have dreamed about since you were a child.

There have been many times that I’ve witnessed gatherings on the beach or in the water that consisted of surfers representing no less than 8 or 9 different countries at a time. Yet within seconds of being there it quickly becomes clear that no one is cognizant of the fact that they come from faraway lands. They are brought together through being on their search.

With surf travel becoming as easy to facilitate and as popular as ever before, we are provided the opportunity to make connections with other surfers that can last a lifetime. While it may be the only occasion that you’ll actually share the waves or other experiences with them in the physical sense, the memories of the journey and the people you meet along the way will undoubtedly last a lifetime.

What is it exactly that brings us all together as surfers while out on our travels? I’m not exactly sure. And while I imagine the reasons may be different for all of us, there is without a doubt a uniting force among surfers unlike any other found on this earth. And in that we have another reason that sets surfing apart and gives it a truly unique identity.

FULL ARTICLE AT: http://5ones.com/the-uniting-force-of-surf-travel-671/

SURFERS - the movie

2009-04-10T04:40:00.000-07:00

Took my son last summer to see it…

It was a slightly revamped version from when I was a kid…

Excellent quality time spent.

The BILLABONG free-schwag made his night.

Casa Bahiti - Las Gaviotas

2009-04-10T00:35:00.000-07:00

Imagine waking to this everyday…

In 2005 this was the view that greeted my eyes each morning for 4-days in April. As spring begins to establish itself, I often find myself thinking about that April in 2005 and the trip into Baja that allowed me to etch these picturesque scenes into my head.

If you’ve ever wanted an idea about what makes a great bedroom…the picture above is it! Natural light and visibility to natural landscapes is therapeutic. This room was pointed directly at the break of Las Gaviotas which we would surf each day (usually twice a day).

Living space is overstated most times when people describe their houses. The reality is that one space or even one room can serve every purpose and incorporate the needs and wants of those that occupy it.

Great space, great view.

From the outside it has a distinct feel and look…possibly the surfer’s dream house. Unfortunately the trip into Baja is no longer safe. Regardless of what local SoCal residents may say about the so called “overhyped situations” occurring across the border. The fact remains that since 2007 it’s become a risk versus an adventure to claim waves in the rural landscapes of the Baja peninsula.

But as soon as things re-adjust down there I’ve already got some loosely setup plans to head back and get some good ‘ol fashion mexican sliding time.

Olé

PHOTOS: www.baja-rentals.com

Custom Surfboards

2009-04-09T01:31:00.000-07:00

When I first “really” started surfing waves in 1988, it was more important to have a board that closely matched your favorite surfer than having a board that truly matched your ability (or lack thereof).

My favorite surfer at the time was Occy (Mark Occhilupo) and he was riding for Rusty. So for me it was imperative that I ascertain a board that was a Rusty…no questions asked. My “goto” shop at that time was Island Style www.islandstylesurf.com in Sea Bright, NJ. Derf McTighe (whom I would find out was really Fred McTighe and was related to guys I ended going to high school with) owned the shop and always had a great selection of used equipment on hand. In late November of ’88 I located a used Rusty that had belonged to Doug Hopper (a former Island Style Surf Team Rider). I was sold.

There were a couple of key components of the board that have always stuck in my head, and to be honest I have always regretted trading that board back to Island Style for a new Maurice Cole. I had even been surfing Seven Presidents Park back-in-the-day and remember Doug Hopper in the line-up saying to me that he wished he had held on to that board as well.

The first component noted was the actual thickness of the board. It floated extremely well, and that made it easy to paddle. The low rocker or bottom curve allowed for speedy turns even in the flattest parts of the wave. And finally the length…it was only a 6’0”, but it held in larger waves. The fins were glass-on which was standard for the late 1980’s.

As I have progressed over the past 20 years, my style adapted to the “stock” equipment provided. It wasn’t until I called down to Florida and talked Greg Loher that I discovered that re-distribution of certain board measurements converted to overall volume numbers could totally make a board almost perfect for an individual.

We worked out the numbers, and he shaped my first custom “rocket-fish”. It was an unbelievable board made solely for me that changed my surfing forever. After that I stupidly went back to stock boards and didn’t order another true custom shape until 2005.

All six of my boards since have been custom.

This past fall I opted to get a new quad (4-fin) that included components from that very first Rusty board straight through some of the newest adaptations in board design. I worked closely with my current shaper Griffin Neumann-Kyle at GNK Surfboards www.gnksurfboards.com to include almost a full bottom of double concave with vee through the tail.

It is the shortest board I have ever owned coming in at 5’10” x 19.3” x 2 5/8”.

And it’s by far the best board I’ve ever had…back to the future. What goes around comes around.

OCCY

2009-04-08T17:18:00.000-07:00

Hey, have I told you about my friend Occy…and my connection to Billabong?

Occy and Billabong are like peanut butter and jelly...they will always be synonymous with each other!

Well Mark Occhilupo and I aren’t really friends, but he’s been a surfing inspiration for the last 20 years for me. His retirement from the competitive side of surfing on December 14th, 2007 truly marked an end to an era. I happily follow the ASP WCT events, and I am an active participant in the Fantasy Surfer game of picking surfers who’ll hopefully do well in the 10 events each season.

Billabong has been my core surfing brand of choice since the early 1980’s. And yeah, I don’t really have a true connection to Billabong either…but it helped make a strong opening for this BLOG entry didn’t it!

Last year during the Globe Fiji event I played the Occy Trivia Game and…I ACTUALLY WON!

I was greeted one morning to an e-mail response from Mike Farnham at Globe International.

The package soon arrived and it included a nicely sized “old-school” Occy poster and a fresh pair of limited edition Occy Icon shoes. NICE.

Sometimes even the most minor connections help tie everything together. So I many never get to know Occy personally, but having an item signed by the man himself is pretty cool.

PHOTO: www.billabong.com

Sipping Jetstreams...

2009-04-07T01:21:00.000-07:00

This is the whole concept of Sipping Jetstreams. I am not a super huge fan of

Taylor Steele's earlier movies projects, but the ones of late have been off the charts

in my opinion. Sipping Jetstreams is a great visual into the premise of travel as a surfer.

To cap it off, the photos taken by Dustin Humphrey are amazing.

I received the DVD and Hardcover PHOTO book as a gift 2 years ago. And when I

get into a funk with my own essence of taking photos, I revert to "the book" (which

is what I like to call it) for inspiration.

To see the DVD is one thing, but see the photos from the book is totally different.

PHOTO: Dustin Humphrey

See more at www.sippingjetstreams.com

The Surfer's Path - Monday Morning Wave

2009-04-06T11:27:00.000-07:00

Quote - "We are creating history today! How will you be judged? Be kind to one another. Be gentle on the environment. Always try and do the right thing, both close to home and on a grand scale. " - Spencer Croul (surfer, surf historian, collector)

I'm not sure how many people actually look over the quotations included in The Surfer's Path - Monday Morning Wave e-mailing...but I always look forward to it. The quote above struck a chord this AM. It was a very beautiful day yesterday, and outside activities were definitely the call for the day. However, as much as I want to simply let go and let my children be children to enjoy the innocence of being a child and allowing them to play with their friends "freely", I constantly catch myself being the "bad-guy". My son brought to light the true innocence of childhood last night right before bed. He felt heart-broken that he had left someone out of an activity yesterday. His guilt and the tears he shed were beyond moving. As a parent I try to teach the right-thing-to-do...but at times it becomes apparent that outside influences and peer pressure take precedence. He knew what he was doing was wrong, he felt it in his heart, and later that day his conscience caught up to him. Spencer Croul's quote put into words the emotions expressed last night.

What a great day! Yudi Andika, along with his family and a few friends, narrowly outran the Dec 26th 2004

tsunami when it decimated his village in Aceh, Indonesia. They lost loved ones and possessions, but life

just had to roll on. Here's Yudi, living it to the full at home.

(Yudi's story appears in the current issue of TSP (71) and with other features online at www.Surferspath.com)

PHOTO: Stephen Jones

Journal Photoism

2009-04-05T03:25:00.000-07:00

In an attempt to revitalize my lack of desire to involve myself the past 12 months in the one thing that has kept me sane for the past 25 years, I am shifting my focus from "doing" the activity and hoping to evoke my interest by "portraying" the waves, ocean, and surfing/beach lifestyle that I have enjoyed throughout my life. I am using the BLOG format to force a maintainment (yes, I know that's not a word) and a current change over versus a static and often stagnet website.

This is where it all starts...

April 4, 2009 - 6:28AM

April 4, 2009 - 6:39AM

April 4, 2009 - 6:42AM

Enjoy!